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Tasting Seville pt1.

Welcome to Seville, the vibrant capital of Andalusia!

With its rich history, stunning architecture, and lively culture, Seville captivates visitors worldwide. From the iconic Alcázar palace to the contemporary Setas de Seville to the majestic Seville Cathedral, there’s no shortage of breathtaking landmarks to explore, but more so, the food scene of this stunning city is not to be missed. There is already plenty of information on places to see in Seville so I would like to write more about my recommended places to eat when you are in Seville.

Seville boasts a thriving food scene that tantalises the taste buds of locals and visitors alike. The city is renowned for its delicious tapas, which can be enjoyed in traditional taverns and bodegas, modern gastro bars, and bustling markets. From classic dishes like Gazpacho and Salmorejo to the mouthwatering array of fresh seafood and Iberian ham, there’s something to satisfy every palate. With its lively outdoor terraces and cosy indoor dining spots, Seville offers a delightful culinary experience that reflects the city’s rich gastronomic heritage. Whether seeking a leisurely meal or a quick bite, Seville’s food scene is a true delight for food lovers.

Immerse yourself in the local culture as you stroll through the charming streets of the Santa Cruz neighbourhood, savouring delicious tapas in a bustling local bar. Experience the vibrant atmosphere of the bustling markets or tapas hop on Almeda de Hercules. Whether you’re dining in a Michelin restaurant or a traditional tavern, Seville’s charm and beauty are sure to leave a lasting impression.


Start your day like a local in Seville with a typical breakfast experience. Join the locals in small, crowded traditional cafes where there is hardly any place to sit. Order your coffee at the bar and choose a slice of bread with serrano ham, tomatoes and olive oil, chorizo spread, or manchego cheese. If you're not a fan of bread, you can also have a slice of Tortilla de Patatas. The best part is that these dishes come in two sizes - Media and Entera. Media is a half portion and prices start at €2, allowing you to try more than one dish. If you prefer a sweet breakfast, don't miss out on the toast with the world-famous Sevillan Orange Marmalade.

My choice of breakfast place was ‘EL PICA’ on Calle Moreno Lopez, which I found by accident as it's almost hidden in a small alley. It's so busy and noisy with locals that you can hear them on the main street. When the place is packed with locals and it's loud, it means that it's good and it's been there for a long time. You need to know what you want before you head to order at the bar and be loud; they only hear the loud in this place. There's no website, no social media presence, and no adverts, yet it's packed to the brim with locals. I was probably the only tourist there when I went. I tried their toast with spicy chorizo spread, tortilla de patatas, and coffee, paid €6 and came out as a very satisfied man.

If you’re tired of the traditional Spanish or Andalusian breakfast and in the mood for a coffee and pastry or a croissant, I highly recommend ‘SYRA COFFEE’ . It is definitely one of the best places for coffee in Seville. They have multiple locations; my favourite is the one in the boutique bnb in Tetuan. The baristas

are very friendly and always happy to recommend their favourite places to eat.

I highly recommend ‘ JESTER COFFEE AND JUICE ‘ if you want to enjoy a healthy breakfast of bowls and fresh fruit juices. It’s a really cool two-level place with lots of indoor plants and an open kitchen on the top floor.


Though there are many restaurants that offer great lunch menus, I think my favourites have been the markets for lunches. Most of them close down after lunches so it’s always nice to go and explore the markets for an hour or two, have lunch there and head home for siesta before it gets too hot.

MERCADO DE TRIANA- This riverside market is celebrating 200 years of history this year, and

you can see some glimpses of it on the market walls with bull’s heads on display. This market can get very touristy as the day goes by, so locals tend to go first thing in the morning to shop here and have a coffee and a pastry before they head home. If you want to see the buzz of the market, go there early and try a few small plates while walking around. I recommend SENOR TRONCOSO for a couple of small plates or oysters with champagne, and if you fancy seafood and beer, then LOLI BREWERY’ whose family has been Fishmongers in the market for 3 generations and now they started a brewery too with food specialising in fish dishes.

If you want to learn a bit of Andalusian or Spanish cooking, then there is a cooking school called 'TALLER ANDALUZ DE COCINA’ that is one of the very few cooking schools in the world that is located in a food market.

MERCADO DE FERIA -A 20-25 minute walk from the bustling tourist centre is Mercado de Feria, my favourite market in Seville. It’s buzzing with locals and is a popular place for a working lunch. While walking around, I heard someone playing loud Latin music and immediately followed the sound to CONDENDÊ - a bar/tapas place run by Latin American immigrants. Try their Brazilian Pão de Queijo (stuffed bread rolls made of tapioca flour and cheese) and their very popular arepas. Foot-tapping Latin tunes, delicious food, and a mojito cake to finish your meal... can’t go wrong with that.

MERCADO LANJA DEL BARRACO - The fish market heritage building, dating back to 1883, has been renovated into a stylish market housing 20 food stalls and bars. The glass and iron structure, illuminated by beautiful lighting, gives the place a stunning look. Unfortunately, the food here did not live up to the hype. You can visit to see the beautifully converted space and enjoy a drink on the terrace, but in terms of food, there are many better markets than this one in Seville. I felt like this was a missed opportunity.

BODEGA SANTA CRUZ LAS COLUMNAS- After touring the grand Cathedral of Seville and Giralda, if you’re looking for a traditional Andalusian lunch, Bodega Santa Cruz is the place to go. It’s just a short walk from the cathedral and offers local specialities such as Gazpacho and Salmorejo, a traditional soup made of tomatoes, bread, garlic, and extra virgin olive oil. Their Carrillada slow-cooked pork cheek, is a must-try dish. On a hot day, you can try a glass of Tinto Verano, a cold wine drink made of equal parts red wine and soda or lemonade. All the small plates are priced between €2.50 to €3.10, so you can enjoy a satisfying meal for as little as €10-12.

In the second part of ‘Tasting Seville,’ I will discuss my favourite restaurants and the Chefs who are making a difference. Stay Tuned.


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